Too sharp

Rep. Jan Schakowsky recorded a YouTube message on the economy this week. She wore a polka dot blazer:

This is a bold print, and there's nothing wrong with bold prints, but this is the wrong print for this woman. Polka dots can be very sharp and unforgiving, especially in the scale where each dot is about the size of your eye. They are perfectly round, perfectly defined (there are no soft edges on a dot) and in this case, they are the highest possible contrast of black and white. Comparing this print with Rep. Schakowsky's features, the dots don't compliment her. Her hair is softly framing her face, with many variations of color within it. Her eyebrows have soft edges. Her nose and her mouth are comprised of straight lines, not round ones.

It's also interesting to note that this was a planned appearance on camera - she wasn't in the middle of doing something else. So this is my opportunity to remind you that when you plan to go on camera, consider not just what your clothes look like on you, but also how they look in your surroundings. The size and contrast of the dots are in direct competition with the flag right behind her (and the flag wins). The black backdrop just absorbs the rest of it.

This is one instance where I definitely would have recommended a solid, maybe in a steel gray like this:

Cut in half

Secretary Hillary Clinton traveled to Tanzania last week. She wore a signature pantsuit, this time in contrasting shades of orange and brown:

The contrasting colors here create a sharp visual line that cuts her body exactly in half. Remember that because we are humans and we bend at the waist, we tend to think of our waist as our "middle" but it isn't. The middle of your body (minus your head) is usually down around the bottom of your hips. Dividing this body exactly in half tends to look clunky. It's much more flattering to alter the proportions a bit, to have a longer section on top or on bottom. For example, look at the lady standing right next to the Secretary in a dark top and print skirt - the skirt portion of her outfit creates a much longer "section" than the top, which looks much more elegant.

The Bachmann Formula

Last fall, we here at The Style of Politics began to notice a change in the way Michele Bachmann was dressing. For appearances with the mainstream press or in the House, her style became much more conservative and achromatic. The colorful, more feminine look that had been her signature became reserved for appearances at Tea Party rallies and on Fox News.

The frillier, decorative look that I began to think of as "date night with Fox" survived on cable news well in to 2011.  Here she is in March:

The rosy cheeks and flip hairdo we've known for so long hadn't been seen much in Congress this year, but here they were on conservative cable. Bachmann played well to this particular audience, that places keen emphasis on femininity in women candidates (for an excellent discussion of this, see Big Girls Don't Cry: The Election that Changed Everything for American Women by Rebecca Traister).

But by May, it was gone. As speculation of a Bachmann presidential run reached the boiling point, her straight hair and gray suit had reach Fox News too:

Look carefully here, and remember what you see: plain suit, three-strand pearl necklace, pearl drop earrings. Got that?

Here it is again in her campaign announcement:


And again in the CNN debate:


It seems Bachmann has found her look.

I'm not sure that she can sustain a no-color wardrobe over an entire campaign, but we see a strategy emerging here. Where Hillary Clinton was mocked for too much color (and too many pants) and Sarah Palin was mocked for spending too much money and wearing labels as famous as she was, this wardrobe seeks to disappear. It may work for now, as long as the candidate inside doesn't disappear with it.

How to wear a name tag

Political events and business networking events of all stripes make frequent use of name tags. They're useful, reminding us of names of those we've met before and providing a visual as well as an audio cue for new introductions. But sometimes they can be awkward for us to wear.

For example, it looks like a name tag gave Nevada State Treasurer Kate Marshall a bit of trouble recently:


Here are some tips for Kate (and for you) to help next time go better:

• If you're already wearing a name tag at an event, take it off before you go on stage. No one can read it up there anyway, and it can end up distracting your audience. Removing it will also help you project more authority.
• When you're not on stage, you're not too cool for a name tag. If you bothered to come to an event, then you should make it worth your while, as you never know who you'll meet. But new or renewed contacts are much less useful if they can't remember who you are. Wear your name tag, and don't ever relegate it to your waist, your purse or your notebook. 
• Place your name tag on your right shoulder, high on your chest, just below your collar bone. This will make it easier for people you meet to see it and read it quickly while shaking hands (hence the right side) without breaking eye contact for too long. Stay well above the bust line!
• Keeping a small binder clip and a large safety pin with you when you go to events will allow you to convert a clip to a pin or a pin to a clip as needed.
• Check on your name tag periodically throughout the event. A name tag that is sideways, falling off or missing can't be read.

Disaster preparedness

The country has been beset by a remarkable number of natural disasters and near-disasters this spring, pulling our elected officials out of their offices and into some harrowing conditions. As you might imagine, in that moment no one can really stop and think too hard about, "What do I wear?"

In wardrobe, as in so many other areas of life, it is for these emergencies that we prepare, well in advance. If your entire stack of casual clothes are, at least, the right colors, a good fit and free from damage, then you can just grab and go - whatever was on the top of the pile will serve you well. Why are you holding on to that shirt with the stain, or the pants that are too short anyway? Cleaning out your closet gives you the tools to be comfortable and prepared when the moment strikes, so you can focus on what's important.

My example for today is Senator Mary Landrieu, surveying flood protections in Baton Rouge:

This shirt fits her well, is a good color for her, and has enough structure (by having a collar) to give it some shape and look put together. If she has a whole drawer full of these, she's in good shape.

Get Involved: The White House Project

And now for something new at Style of Politics: a periodic feature called "Get Involved," profiling organizations, opportunities and events that put women in politics into action.

Today, The White House Project.

You can read more extensively about the work and mission of this organization on their website here, which centers on filling the leadership pipeline in civic and corporate arenas with women.

What I think is remarkable is that the White House Project is at a moment of transforming transition: their visionary founder Marie C. Wilson has passed the leadership baton to a new president, Tiffany Dufu. Tiffany is young, ambitious, dynamic and most critically, she is ready and eager to make her own path for the White House Project.  She spoke recently at a luncheon in Washington, DC about her plans as president, part of which include giving the organization more of a presence here, in addition to their headquarters in New York and regional centers around the country.

So, my point is this: if you're in DC, get ready for more from the White House Project. You might want to check out the DC Leadership Circle. And if you're in New York, they're hiring! To go along with Tiffany's new presidency, the organization is seeking a Chief Operating Officer. It's an incredible opportunity, so check it out.

Wear white in May

By now, most people take the old "rules" about wearing white only after Memorial Day and before Labor Day as antiquated. But I do usually advise reserving a white suit until May, unless you live in a tropical climate.

Now that it's May, Senator Kay Hagan recorded a message for Armed Forces week in a particularly great white suit:

The gold trim on this jacket gives definition to the lapels without creating high contrast - an excellent look for her.

Standing Up

Hillary Clinton gave remarks to the Global Diaspora Forum this week. She wore black and white:


We have seen some great examples in the past of stand up collars, like Eleanor Holmes Norton last month. And we've seen great examples of bold, multi-layered necklaces, as on Stephanie Rawlings-Blake in January.

Mary Queen of Scots

Unfortunately, this look isn't doing the Secretary any favors. It's a shame because I think the spirit of this look was right - achromatic, dimensional and a bit feminine. 

But it fell down on the proportions. The collar is so large, I hope I was the only one who thought of Mary Queen of Scots when I saw this blouse, but I suspect I wasn't. A collar just half an inch narrower would have had a completely different effect, allowing for the softness of a ruffle instead of emphasizing the stiffness of the material standing away from her body.

I hope this helps you understand why it's important to try things on, not just for fit but also for proportion!

In the height

Governor Nikki Haley of South Carolina spoke to the Columbia Tea Party last week. She wore a teal jacket:

The governor has chosen well from this spring's palette of popular colors with this soft green.

What's most notable about this jacket, though, is the design details; epaulets and flap pockets on the chest could be overwhelming for some. It works here because of Haley's specific proportions - she is tall and has an average size bust. Women with larger busts or shorter statures may well find this style difficult to carry off.

Find the Fit

Senator Lisa Murkowski had questions for Janet Napolitano in a recent Senate appropriations subcommittee hearing. The senator wore black:

We could have a discussion about the pros and cons of wearing a shinier black satin jacket during the day (tricky, but doable) but I would prefer to discuss fit here. This jacket is just a bit too big for the senator. Notice that it sags around the arms and floats away from her body at the shoulders. The lapels are somewhat out of proportion too, which adds to the "too big" look. Not a disaster by any means, but perhaps not the best possible choice.

How to wear gray

Senator Boxer spoke on the Senate floor this week about Planned Parenthood and women's health. She wore a gray blouse under a pink blazer:


This combination works so well on the Senator because the contrast between the shades of pink and gray is low, similar to the low contrast between her skin and hair color. The heathered variation of the gray blouse makes this a less formal look (as do the big hoop earrings) but the structured jacket keeps her looking appropriate for the Senate.

Just a little bit longer

Hillary Clinton recorded a message last week about the 2011 Hours Against Hate campaign last week. She wore red:

Her necklace is attractive and visually interesting, but it's much too short for her. At this length, it cuts off the line of her neck, emphasizing the loose skin there. It almost looks uncomfortable. If this necklace were longer, reaching down near the top of her red blouse, it would work much better, emphasizing her second balance point.