Bras, Spacesuits, and "Mission Accomplished"

One of these things is not like the other, right?

Not so fast. Ten year's after George W. Bush wore a flight suit on the deck of an aircraft carrier to declare "Mission Accomplished" in Iraq, it's a particularly interesting time to read Spacesuit: Fashioning Apollo by Nicholas de Monchaux. The form and function of the spacesuits American astronauts wore on the moon have more to do with politics, women, and fashion than you might think.

Unpacking the space suit. Courtesy NASA The Commons on Flickr.

In what was probably the most significant intersection of the fashion industry and the military-industrial complex ever, the contract to build the spacesuits for NASA's Apollo missions that ultimately put a man on the moon went to the International Latex Corporation (ILC), the parent of Playtex. Although the ILC division making the spacesuits and the bra company Playtex ultimately split into separate businesses, de Monchaux explains that "until 1966, pipes of liquid latex ran to the dipping room [for spacesuit production] from the same tanks supplying girdle and bra assembly lines." This wasn't a coincidence, and it isn't an instance of space technology trickling down to the general public. In fact, it's the reverse. The first pressurized flight suits had their origins with companies that started out taking advantage of the advent of circular knitting machines in the 1930s to produce girdles and men's compression garments. (We may write about "men's shapewear" like it's a new phenomenon, but it's not.) The entry of the United States into World War II shifted production to high altitude flight suits for military pilots instead. At the same time, early latex technology at Playtex shifted from children's underwear and sheets to inflatable rafts for the military, and the firm's founder shifted his advertising budget to paid newspaper editorials in support of the Roosevelt Administration. But it was John F. Kennedy's vision that would take this fashion-military connection to a whole new level.

Gemini VIII astronauts. Courtesy NASA The Commons on Flickr.

Kennedy's public commitment to putting a man on the moon was as much about image as it was about technological achievement. The race was on, literally, to accomplish every facet of that mission, including competition among multiple firms for the privilege of suiting up the men in space. And they were all men, with military backgrounds. While the decision to limit the astronaut corps to military pilots was initially made in an effort to protect classified military technology, it was conveyed to the public as being motivated by the superior physiological capacity of elite military pilots. In fact, the entire purpose of a spacesuit is to meet the finite human ability to withstand altitude and extend it, not to require some superior category of person. It was almost different: a NASA subcontractor, Dr. Richard Lovelace, performed a series of performance tests on women for readiness in space, finding equal ability and stamina to withstand altitude. He passed 13 women by 1961, but Vice President Johnson nixed the idea. Regardless of actual ability, women didn't fit the Cold War image of strength that the entire NASA acceleration was intended to convey.

So how did a company that started life making garments primarily for women and children end up making highly technical spacesuits for men? Superior performance, but it was hard won. The image of a "space man" had begun forming decades before, and its futuristic elements were well known - a space suit was smooth, modular, and shiny. There were some technical advantages to these features with respect to pressurization, and many of the prototype suits produced by ILC's competitors had a smooth, sturdy, impenetrable look. The problem, ironically, was space. Space capsules and lunar modules left the astronauts very little room to maneuver, yet they had to be able to perform complex tasks related to flight, and ultimately extricate themselves from the spacecraft out into space and on to the moon. Have you ever worn a Halloween costume that started out as a cardboard box? And then tried to get in and out of a small car while wearing it? Not easy. Now imagine trying that in space.

Apollo 9 astronauts. Courtesy NASA The Commons on Flickr.

The ILC suit, by contrast, was made of 21 soft textile layers, handcrafted on specially modified sewing machines by master seamstresses originally trained in the high-precision sewing of bras and other garments. Not only were these suits far more easily maneuvered, they were more comfortable, incorporating a layer of girdle lining fabric between the astronaut's skin and the rubberized layers above it. But superior functionality was not entirely enough to win the contract - image was important too. At one point, ILC submitted to NASA along with its prototype suits a short film of two of their engineers playing football, with one of them wearing the spacesuit. This iconic image of American masculinity said more than any technical specifications on durability, comfort, and mobility could convey. ILC won the contract, and they still make space suits today.

So what does this have to do with politics? John Glenn, the first American to orbit the earth, served 24 years in the United State Senate.

John Glenn entering Friendship 7 in a test facility. Courtesy NASA The Commons on Flickr.

The image of flight suits and space suits are associated with superior physical and technical ability expressly by design. The American public was told over and over for a decade that these military men wearing strange, rarefied garments were the best of the best, as close to elite beings as we could find to send into space. The suit became a powerful visual shorthand for excellence. It would be 20 years before a woman publicly joined that club.

First class of female astronauts, 1979. Courtesy NASA The Commons on Flickr.

When President George W. Bush appeared before a national audience wearing a flight suit to declare "Mission Accomplished," what did it mean? I expect we'll see a lot of interesting analysis this week in hindsight, but at the time the visual message was quite clearly expressed in the media: strength, vigor, leadership, and sex appeal. He had the equipment to fly as high as man can go.



For women, the potential of these images is just beginning. This term we saw two female veterans elected to Congress: Tammy Duckworth and Tulsi Gabbard. As a double-amputee and former Secretary of Veterans Affairs, we've already become accustomed to associating Duckworth's image with military service. But it remains to be seen whether in this era of roadside bombs and women in combat whether it's our perception of women or of military service that will change. Commercial spaceflight could make the spacesuit part of anyone's wardrobe for the right price, which might say "luxury" but it doesn't say "elite." The days of the high flying leader might be over, and that might be ok.

This post is the first in a new series examining historical, sociological, psychological and artistic influences on the effects of image in politics, in preparation for my first book.

How Margaret Thatcher became a style role model

Don't get me wrong. For all the photo essays reviewing Margaret Thatcher's style this week, no one would ever mistake her for a fashion plate. But she was the first female elected leader of a major Western country, and that made her a role model just by virtue of her existence.

 "There is a nonsense about intelligent women not being beautiful. There is no genetic link between brains and beauty. Most women are far more intelligent than people give them credit for."

Want to know what a woman in power looks like? Margaret Thatcher was among the first very prominent examples:


Like some American leaders we know, she was asked by the press about her style and beauty habits. It was inane, but that's not to say that we can't learn something from her:

1. Devise a go-to outfit that works for you. It should be comfortable, professional, easy to assemble, and endlessly repeatable without being cartoonish.
2. Same goes for your handbag.
3. Take your makeup off every night, and not with soap if you can avoid it.

And....that's pretty much it. Easier said than done? I can help!

We won't have more women in office

At least not any time soon, not if we keep this up. That's the message we heard (loudly) this week with the release of a new study from the Women & Politics Institute at American University. It's worth the 20 minutes to read the study itself, I promise.

The main take away is this: We need to spend more time encouraging women to run for office. All women, but especially young women. And all offices, even college student government. Now, I don't want to say I told you so, but I did. It's not too late to keep that New Year's Resolution.

Another take away from the study has gotten even more attention: it means more for a young woman's future political ambition to work and be involved in politics at all than it does to simply have the role models of women in office in front of her. Here's how study co-author Jennifer Lawless put it to the Atlantic:

"Certainly having Nancy Pelosi be speaker of the House suggests that a woman can get elected and become speaker of the House and that's a vital ingredient," Lawless said. "But having an internship in any member of Congress' office probably confers a greater degree of confidence, experience, skills, and interest in terms of someone's own future potential candidacy than the mere presence of a female speaker."

Ok, so how do we get more young women working in politics?  There are some remarkable resources. Here are a few:

The Star Fellowship at Running Start. This program not only places college women in internships on Capitol Hill with housing and a living stipend but also provides them with ongoing mentoring and support throughout their time in Washington and long after they leave. Applications for Fall 2013 are due April 8!!!

The Women's Congressional Staff Association. More than just a networking group for Hill staffers (although it's that too) WCSA runs a mentoring program that pairs staffers with more senior women on the Hill for four-month stints. In a unique twist, the program requires all women requesting a mentor to also serve as a mentor to someone more junior than herself. This not only solves the problem of a shortage of mentors that some programs have, but also reminds even relatively junior staffers that they have something valuable to offer others.

Do you have other ideas? An opening in your office? Comment below!

Take a cue from Pelosi

It's March. Soon we'll see daffodils and winter coat sales popping up everywhere. As eager as you are for spring, snagging that coat now and stashing it in your closet until November is a great investment. I hope you'll consider a brightly colored coat, which is one of the great joys of women's apparel. You should try Boden - they have some great colors.

Need some inspiration? Here's Nancy Pelosi in rich violet at a rally on the Voting Rights Act:

How to wear emerald

You may have heard: Pantone's color of the year for 2013 is emerald.  (Pantone is a color system and forecasting service. Now you know.)

Rep. Michele Bachmann selected emerald for a hearing with Federal Reserve Chairman Ben Bernanke: http://youtu.be/NsZaaV5JSEs


Emerald is a strong color, but many people can wear it. The key is to break it up a little bit, as Rep. Bachmann has done here with a necklace. She also kept her makeup strong, preventing the color from washing her out.

Here's how you can wear emerald too:

Emerald: 2013 Color of the Year by styleofpolitics featuring a crystal pendant necklace

Day or evening?

Baltimore Mayor Stephanie Rawlings-Blake held a press conference this week on her ten year fiscal forecast.  She wore gray: http://youtu.be/oNEfEN9kRgo


This would be a really lovely look for an evening out to dinner or the theater. This cool gray compliments the Mayor's skin tone, and the necklace hits her first balance point perfectly. But the richness of having multiple textures and patterns, a grosgrain ribbon edge to the jacket, and shiny rhinestones on the necklace take this outfit out of the "work" space and into something more social. The high neckline keeps us out of "date night with Fox" territory, but I would have still recommended a much more businesslike look for such a businesslike subject.

What it means to be part of the conversation

 I just got back from the IFB conference. Here's what I learned:

1. If I really think you need me, gentle readers, (and I do) then I have to give you what you need. More posts in 2013!
2. If you want people to listen to you, you should have something to say. I learned that from my new blog crush, Hilary Rushford of Dean Street Society. Ok, I already new that, but I just like Hilary.
3. What we say matters, but how we say it matters too. I learned that from Neil Blumenthal, co-founder of Warby Parker. Here is is in front of a slide of their super cool mobile pop-up shop on a school bus: 

New Year's Resolutions

Have you made any New Year's Resolutions? Have you broken them already? Still searching?


Photo courtesy of Nancy Pelosi's photostream on Flickr

Resolve to have some style in politics:

1. Show a girl she can lead. Highlight good examples. Be a good example yourself. Consider supporting one of the many wonderful organizations that support girls in leadership - I like Running Start.

2. Support a woman running for office. Look high AND low - the House is full now, but your county, city or school board may have elections this fall or even this spring. And again, there are incredible organizations like Emily's List to help you support some of them.

3. Seriously consider running for office yourself. We know that one reason we don't have anywhere near gender parity in elected office (even in this banner year for Congress) is that not enough women run for office to begin with. Don't imagine that you aren't qualified or aren't ready. You probably are, and if you aren't you can get there. And guess what? You don't have to have it all perfectly figured out. Consider a few tools, like Kathy Groob's excellent Pink Politics guide to preparing for a campaign.

What to wear to your polling place

Comfortable shoes! Hahaha!

Ok, this is sort of a joke, but it sort of isn't. Somehow, I always imagine this fantasy polling place where I waltz in, flip some levers, and affix a sticker to my blouse as I prance off to work five minutes later. Perhaps this has something to do with my first voting experience at 18, in a local school board election in September, where I got to cast a ballot for my dad and this guy. No lines then. But I digress. The reality is that you should be prepared to wait. I'm not suggesting you do anything crazy, just maybe don't wear the 4 inch platforms that look great under your desk but don't hold for an hour straight on your feet. Maybe something more like this:


Many of the women we've written about on this blog are on ballots today: Claire McCaskill,  Elizabeth Warren, and of course all the women (and men) in the House of Representatives. I hope you'll judge them all by their words, and not their clothes.

If you've somehow made it here but still don't know what's up today, go here and find out what you need to know. Voting matters!

Not all pink is created equal

This week, Secretary Clinton created a video announcement of the Diplomatic Culinary Partnerships Initiative. She wore pink:


I admit, it's been a while since we talked about blondes wearing pink. It's time to talk about it again.

As I said before, pale pink can be very difficult to carry off if you have fair coloring. Secretary Clinton was right to pair this pale pink jacket with something darker.

BUT

This neon pink is much too saturated for her. We've essentially gone too far in the other direction. Now instead of looking pale, she's swallowed up by the color, even with highly defined makeup that was probably intended to counteract the effect.

It's also too much to have a ruffled neckline AND a droopy, sheer pocket square. It's so soft it starts to look costume-y, which she surely wasn't going for.

Perhaps she would have been better served by something like this:

Pink but not too pink by styleofpolitics featuring diane von furstenberg

Paul Ryan's clothes don't matter. There I said it.

The internet discussion of Paul Ryan's image has reached critical mass. Yes, everyone from Pulitzer Prize-winner Robin Givhan to the twitterverse is talking about his hair, as we noted earlier this week.

But it's not just the hair. It's the lack of a tie. It's the ill-fitting jacket. It's his overall "hotness."
 


And now, in a way only possible in the internet age, people are talking about how much people are talking about what Ryan looked like at Romney's announcement: here's Andrew Sullivan at the Daily Beast.

All this discussion of image and hair and clothes reminds many of us of the last time the Republicans announced a vice presidential nominee. Jen Doll draws it out for us on the Atlantic Wire.

But here's the thing: Paul Ryan will soon go back to wearing ties and jackets that fit. And then this discussion will be over. Blogs like this one and fashion columnists might continue to have something to say about what colors he selects for the vice presidential debate and so on, but barring a major gaffe, this will be the last time we see his wardrobe discussed on CNN. There will be no close scrutiny of photos to try to identify the designers and prices of his clothing on morning network talk shows. And while we might see endless references to his blue eyes and "boyish charm," they will appear in preface to whatever it was he actually said or did. And in this way, Ryan will benefit greatly from the accident of his gender. He will not see his wardrobe become an entire conversation independent of anything else he says or does, as it has for Sarah Palin, Hillary Clinton, Condoleezza Rice, or any number of the women who have appeared on this blog. Women must work much harder just to draw the focus away from their clothes. This is why I write this.

The hair ticket

Much has already been made of Mitt Romney's slicked back hairstyle. Now that he's added Paul Ryan to his campaign, we might expect even more follicle-based discussion. Here they are together at the announcement:


Clearly Rep. Ryan has been using some hair products, too. It remains to be seen whether Ryan's famed boyish quality will make Romney look more the elder statesman or actually less appealing. I expect it will be the former. And people are already talking about it. Buzzfeed has lots of pictures, too.